A border town on the plateau
Sežana is the main town of the Slovenian Karst, the limestone plateau that continues the Trieste uplands on the other side of the border. In Italian it is Sesana, a historical name rather than an official one: on the Karst only the Slovenian names are official. It is a border town before it is a postcard village. The motorway, the railway and the Fernetti crossing with its freight terminal sit around it, and in 1949 a new road and railway took part of the grounds of its botanical garden.
The municipality, created in 1994, takes in dozens of settlements, from the town itself to hamlets of a few dozen residents. Around them is the classic Karst landscape: grey limestone, dry-stone walls, dolines, vineyards on red, iron-rich soil, and black-pine woods that in the 19th and 20th centuries replaced a plateau once largely stripped of trees. There is little water on the surface, so villages built ponds (kali) for livestock and cisterns (štirne) for drinking water, and houses collect rain from the roof. The bora, a cold and gusty north-easterly that blows mostly from November to April, explains the blind walls on the windward side.
Two names carry the place beyond its size. The modernist poet Srečko Kosovel was born here in 1904 and died in nearby Tomaj in 1926; the room where he was born has been a memorial since 1976. And 10 min to the south, at Lipica, Archduke Charles II of Habsburg bought in 1580 the estate that became the stud farm behind the name Lipizzaner.


